Hope all is well and Happy Spring! We beat the scarlet tanagers home. As I write this they should be crossing the Gulf of Mexico along with all the other migrants. It was great seeing them singing at the Pueblo Hotel where they were but one of many dazzling jewels. The tanagers were exquisite. On the slopes of the Andes they reach their greatest species richness. Indeed Peru, along with Ecuador and Columbia, has the highest number of bird species on earth and you were in the thick of it! What follows are a few reflections of birds past.

On arrival the Rufous-collared sparrow serenaded us in the city, and throughout the country high and low. This white-throated sparrow relative accompanied us the entire trip and vies with the tropical kingbird as the most frequently seen bird. Sol y Luna showed the first endemic. The abundant green-and-white hummingbird added to the beauty of the landscaping.

At Machu Picchu the birding rivaled our lush surroundings. The Cock-of-the-Rock, surely one of the most beautiful (or bizarre depending on your perspective) birds, is a fitting national symbol for Peru. The aforementioned scarlet tanager and a host of hummers, including the showy long-tailed sylph and booted racquet-tail, were crowd pleasers. For me, the torrent duck was the bird of the trip! Having missed it on all other trips to torrent duck habitat, I thought I was skunked again as we did not see it on our train ride into town, Linda having assured me it was common as mud. Then - I knew it was there when lucky Mary and Colleen spotted it on the bus ride up to Machu Picchu. The next day Viola! Two pairs displaying in the raging Urubamba – a David Attenborough moment. Excellent! What else could a former waterfowl collector want.

It was all downhill from there, literally, as we rode the Vistadome to Cusco, Alpaca fashion show and all. Overnight at the hotel, packing our 30 lbs. of luggage, and onto the bus the next morning with our guides, Enrique, Percy, and Didi (where is he now?).

First stop at Huacarpay Lakes found Puna teal, with their sky-blue bills and ducklings in tow - outstanding. The next endemic, a square-headed bearded mountaineer, almost as large as the most impressive giant hummingbird soaring around the lake. The waders and ducks at a distance reminding us of continental connections – yellow-legs and phalaropes are arctic bound. Later, as we journeyed on, finding the Andean ibis feeding in the wet meadows along the road was very nice. Their gray backs and straw-colored necks shone in the sun at near 13,000 feet!

The mixed flocks began soon after lunch in the Puna. Birds all over diving in and out of the mists, but we all had good looks at the grass green tanager in that first flock of over 20 species. Then down to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge after having several more mixed flocks with their attendant tanagers - hooded mountain tanager, golden tanager, scarlet-bellied mountain tanager - it was tanager heaven!

Overnight at Cock-of-the Rock Lodge, awakening to an earthquake (or was it the rumbling trucks?) and rain. The action at the feeders was intense - more hummingbirds for the list – violet-headed brilliant being just that. We studiously compared tropical and eastern wood peewees in the scope. Remember the spot before the eye in the ________? Then on to the lek – despite the rain a marvelous male appeared, much to Ed's relief as we was down for the count at the Pueblo sighting! Just imagine 20 males displaying at once - you must come back in October.

Next came the mighty Rio Madre de Dios, with egrets, herons (especially the capped), and storks along the banks, and flocks of fly-over parrots and macaws. Overland on a brief but thrilling ride through the mid-elevation flooded forest, brought us to our overnight at Amazonas Lodge. Lemonade and more humming birds awaited us on the veranda. Night was ushered in by a pair of yard perched chestnut-bellied macaws, stunning in the scope. After a welcome night's sleep (well, for some of us) breakfast was served and off for a boots required swamp walk. Spotted was the spot-breasted woodpecker, then someone found the scarlet-hooded barbet eating breakfast fruits, and heard was the strange donkey-like braying of the horned screamer, later to be seen! Just as we prepared to trek out to our boats, scope-filling looks at a stunning male plum-throated Cotinga with his speckled mate…as scarlet and green-winged macaws flew in and perched! Where to look next! A beautiful start to another day.

This was all just a preview to the wonders of Manu. Great flocks of macaws, 6 species in all. Blue-and-golds preening in the trees above the lodge, Scarlets perched at the canopy tower, and then the clay lick – what a sight! First the nervous blue-headed parrots perched with green-and-red macaws, looking like a living Christmas tree. Finally, the macaws' cautious descent to the clay itself – magnificent!

The oxbow lake paddle brought 2 of the strangest birds of the trip - the hoatzin with its startled bad hair day look and the bizarre horned screamers displaying and dueting to each other. A family of giant river otters added to the list of superlatives.

This is but a taste of Peru. I'm sure you have your favorite memories of the birds and beasts of this wildlife rich country. A few categories suggested by Jim, prompted this list for me:

Top 10 Birds: Torrent Duck, Puna Teal, Orinoco Goose, Horned Screamer, Muscovy Duck, Andean Ibis, Cock-of-the-Rock, Paradise Tanager, Bearded Mountaineer, all Macaws. As you can see I am biased toward waterfowl.

Weirdest: Hoatzin

Dullest: Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Drab Water-tyrant, Dull-colored Grassquit

Birds no one should forget: Blue-gray Tanager, Tropical kingbird, Rufous-collared Sparrow

Best Sightings: Already mentioned, but lots to choose from.

The Bird and Wildlife List follows. Please let me know of corrections or additions.