Tom's Thoughts on Africa
What a trip – where to begin? Here are a few of my highlights
of a superb natural history experience, not necessarily in the
order they occurred.
A good beginning to the trip - spotting one of the first birds,
the Spotted
Thick-knee or Dikkop, the night we arrived in Joberg. Morning
in the hotel parking lot Mary brought in a Hadeda Ibis feeding
on the grounds and whole flocks of Gray-headed Gulls and Sacred
Ibis flying overhead in the city.
Next, on to the Namibian desert's stark Skeleton Coast. Here
Oryx and Larks rule these vast horizons. Dune and desert, sea
and sand, and seals by the thousands; scuttling ghost crabs, and
kelp gulls flying along the strand. Later, a spectacular drive
through the canyon and the spectacular painted snipe, (known to
some as the ^%$*#@* bird) a cosmic bird if there ever was. Two
black storks rising along the cliff walls completed that scene.
Kulala-red desert dunes and thousands and thousands of finch
larks, the desert plants and birds responding to the best rain
in seventeen years. The dunes turned green, the lowlands gold
as the annual grasses seeded. Still plants were blooming, a rare
treat for us, and the desert life Aardwolf and Ostrich alike producing
bigger litters and broods, so said our guides.
The Finch Lark and Korans certainly were well represented. Solstice
at Kulala - uphill here, downhill back north – so the world
turns, as dip we inland to the vast waterworld of the Okavango
Delta. Xigera Camp's water certainly upped the bird list, beginning
with the rare and wonderful Pels Fishing Owl. Add water + land,
add more thorn veldt, more forest, all in flux. The bird of the
trip for this waterfowl aficionado was the Pygmy Goose, and we
saw them by the hundreds on our trip to Chief's Island. One very
good look at a swimming pair was had by all. Many, many Jacanas,
Storks and Herons, flushed as we neared the hippo pool…tiny
Malachite Kingfishers shining like jewels in the reeds…a
Fish-eagle, soaring by milling flocks of whistling ducks…water
brings life indeed! The sunset game drive yields bull elephants
at arms length, a close encounter with an elephant is humbling,
lets you know your place in the scheme of things.
Chitabe – what more can I say – predators rule,
be they cheetahs or rollers. Amazing, upon our arrival, greeted
by the spotted sphinx, the two cheetah brothers hunting Tsessebes,
and a lone Wildebeest. Darkness brought a leopard cub –
two spotted cats in a few hours. Next morning revealed the king,
two male lions patrolling for females, walking side by side reflections
as they pause to drink at a drying pool. Then a Serval, another
African wild cat!
It's tough being prey, whether Impala or Mouse, which brings
me to the most outstanding natural history predatory event. The
Lilac-breasted Roller mouse mash-up, as someone said, "the
roller, he's not just a pretty face." What a sight, not only
catching a mouse, but choking it down with scope/eye popping views.
Meanwhile, elephants roamed, baboons crossed the stream to sleep,
Marshall's Eagles swooped and missed dinner, while a Crowned and
Wattled Crane foraged together, what more could ya want?! That's
Africa of song and story and the stories are many – hope
you have some to tell.
( ) editorial insert by LI
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